Sunday, May 2, 2010

Tick & Tick!

Another successful weekend!
If The Shoe Fits V8 / Low Sloper Dan V7/8 Sent!

A3 on an unknown V3
Photo by Nam Tran

AV (now known as A3) and I arrived at The Frontline at around 12, it was very warm and slightly humid. We started warming up and quickly after that A3 easily sent a V3.

Bully about to bust it to the last hold!
Photo by Nam Tran

I had 1 shot on The Shoe and felt like the conditions were far from ideal for me to do this line. The first hold which is a sloper with very little bite felt very damp but after making much love to the hold with some chalk and a brush, it felt a little better.

After 5 or 6 initial tries, I was still swinging off the last move (the crux is to hold the cut). I took a short break and had something to eat. I got back on the problem and I held the cut! I started celebrating inside my head and while swinging back in my left hand slipped off the rock. I was so devastated and thought to myself that was the end and that was going to be the best shot I'll ever have. But with the moves still fresh in my mind, I brushed the holds again, chalked up my fingers and had another attempt. This time I managed to bust to every hold flawlessly and saw the line til the end!

This line has been one of my favourite lines and one of the lines I love the most in Sydney!
I've been wanting to do this problem when I first saw it 2 years ago. A year ago I was only able to do the first move but now to see it completed just motivates me to climb and train harder!
Great Success!

Mega swing on the last move of The Shoe.
Photo by Evan McCarthy

We then moved onto another boulder where Anna, Phil and A3 attempted Battle Of The Shirts. Phil found the pockets to be too small where the girls felt like I was a jug. Phil and A3 had a hard time on the problem where as Anna with her Daniel Woods like lock off power quickly dispatched this problem within 20-30 minutes.

Anna looking at the last hold on The Shoe.
Photo by Nam Tran.

Towards the end of the day, we moved camp to The Sloper Dan wall. After laying down the pads and without cleaning any of the holds, I decided to re-warm up again to start working on the Sloper Dan Extension. I quickly moved through the first few moves then before I knew it, I had completed the extension and now only had Sloper Dan to do, which I have dialed. Being nervous and surprised that I had made it this far, I nearly fell twice doing the V5 - once having a foot slip and another almost falling short of reaching for a hold.

What an incredible day, 2 projects completed!
My next plans for the Frontline is to complete Paratrooping and start working on Rocket Man and perhaps one day link If The Shoe Fits into Rocket Man which becomes L'Homme Obu V10. L'homme Obu would be a dream come true for me!


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