Tuesday, May 11, 2010

Rocket Man Part 1

So excited!

This is another problem that I've always dreamt of doing when I first started bouldering outdoors. It's so perfect - you start on jugs and jump to this slopper kind of hold that's not that great unless you hit it in the right spot with the right body position. After that, its a another big reach (for me anyway) to a good hold, you get another good hold before doing a high top out. I did not expect to be able to stick the first move. I went out to the Frontline just to work on the first move but I was able to figure out my hand and foot beta very quickly. Now its just a matter of dialing the first move so that I can hit the correct part of the first hold everytime.

This problem is the second part of a V11 that was put up by Fred Nicole called L'homme Obu. The first part is If The Shoe Fits V8 that I sent a couple
weeks ago. Both these lines put together make one of the most classic climbs in Sydney. If I can eventually do Rocket Man and then link up The Shoe into it as well, I feel like it would unlock a mental block that I have about grades in climbing and how grades are more just like guides. Many climbers, myself included, are often locked into the thought that if a grade is too high then it must be very hard and that it cant be done.

I so pysched and
cannot wait to get back on the rock and dial down the moves. Also my mate Stu says hes got some good problems with hard mantles on them for me to improve my mantling skills.

Ps. Hurry up Winter! Need cooler temps for harder bouldering!!

Pps. I could do with some Oporto Nuggets right now.

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