Boogie Knights

The Video of Boogie Knights which I posted about on The 6th Of April. The blog entry is somewhere below :)

LOW SLOPER DAN SENT!

Big congrats to Rob for sending his project "Low Sloper Dan" extension to the benchmark classic "Sloper Dan Milosovic".

Upon arriving at the problem, Robbie nearly sent it first shot, falling off the last hold before the jugs. But a few tries later, he dispatched this problem, making it look so easy. I'm not sure how many sessions Rob spent on this problem but everyone was definitely happy that he has finally finished it. You can see the relief and stokeness in his face at the end of the video!

Phil on Sloper Dan
Photo by Nam Tran.

Philip Thai and Andrew Chan figured out some new beta for Sloper Dan's first few moves - unlocking another piece in the puzzle. The boys were looking strong on this problem and definite progression will be made on our next time out.

Chris Fitton was able to do the violent drop in on Who Killed The Kennedy's quiet easily. The crux for him was managing to keep his La Sportiva Venom's on his foot! Hopefully he gets some shoes that actually fit him for the next time he visits the Frontline.

Chris linking a V2 into Paratrooping.
Photo by Robert Trieu

Evan McCarthy and myself spent sometime on If The Shoe Fits. We both made some awesome progress but now we're met with the hardest move on the problem - holding the cut when going for the final move. I haven't tried this problem since last winter. Last time trying the Shoe, I was only able to do the first move. This year I can comfortable do the 3 moves that make up this line minus holding the cut.

Andrew Chan on Paratrooping
Photo by Robert Trieu

We all tried Paratrooping early in the day but last night's rain left the rock still quiet damp and not ideal to climb on. When trying the V7 moves on their own, I thought I was going to do the problem but linking in the first few V2 start moves, it feels totally like a different ball game.

I'm so psyched to keep climbing hard and training hard during the week. Hopefully the weather will be good next weekend, I definitely want to get back onto Paratrooping, Low Sloper Dan and If The Shoe Fits!

SO PYSCHED!

Oh and I have to invest in a decent tripod to do some cool videos, thanks Andrew for lending me your uber tripod!

Frontline Balkans

Tony looking to tag a shit hold before the crux.
Photo by Nam Tran.

After sending Black Magic, I brought the pysche with me to the Frontline which help me send Boogie Knights V8 but in my opinion a soft V8.

Boogie Knights goes up Sloper Dan but you take some crappy edges to the mantle instead some good sloper/jugs.
It has 1 difficult gaston move which I felt like I broke my shoulder on but my shoulder quickly warmed up to it and it was sent within 6-7 tries.

Tony got so close to sending Boogie Knights, with his best attempt doing all the moves bar the first move!
Unfortunately the problem did not go for him which frustrated him quiet abit.
It's ok, next time fella!

Rob unlocked a new sequence on his project Sloper Dan low extension, which should go for him next time we visit The Frontline!

Rob on Sloper Dan Low (wallpaper size)
Photo By Nam Tran

Photos from Today are HERE.

What a weekend!!

What an awesome weekends its been!
4 Days off and got to boulder on Friday and Monday.

At Crumbly I sent Black Magic V8 after 6-7 tries.
Through the first couple tries, I didn't think I would be able to do this problem but as I worked more of the moves, it the problem felt easier and easier with every try.
The shot I had before actually sending it, I fell off the last jug when I took the cut.

Tony and Rob sent Anorexic with Tony getting really close on Black Magic.
Ren made some good progress on Blacker Magic which I was too much of a chicken shit to even work on.. though I did try it once but was too content with my earlier send to work on something new.


Rob on Anorexic V5.

Yeah I'm a shoe whore.

So I got these the other day on a semi-impulse buy.

I didn't plan on getting new shoes as I had just gotten my Jet 7's and Solutions back from resoling but they went at a good price and I know they're a good shoe.

Can't wait to test on the rock this weekend!

Now only Testarossa, Team 5.10 and Miura VS on my to-buy-when-I-win-lotto list.