Saturday, May 8, 2010

K2 & Lucky 7

It's been over a year since I've been to Bonnet Bay. Last year it took 3 visits to work and send K2, which is an awesome V5 with alot of cool moves on good holds and a desperate mantle to finish it off. At the time, K2 was the only thing I was capable to work on though I briefly tried the first few moves on Lucky 7.

Young crusher!
Photo by Nam Tran

This year, I'm much stronger and experienced which opened up many more lines for me to work on at Bonnet Bay. I never realised the concentration of hard lines in a small cave that this crag offers. I will definitely be back to further work on a V8 that involves small crimps and a tricky foot sequence as well as a cool looking V10 that will be a long term project.

Arriving at 11:30, it was already quiet warm and despite having only 4-5hrs sleep, my mate Rob and I had a successful trip.
We had no energy and no pysche in the morning and were falling of a V2 warm up. It felt like it was going to be a long day.

Rob on top of K2.
Photo by Nam Tran

After only a few tries, Rob work out a sequence for K2 and then cruised his way to the top!

We moved onto Lucky 7 which I believe to be a very solid V7. It's very very technical and with alot of moves in a short distance. A very good line - probably the best V7 around as my mate Stu says and I agree.

Me on Lucky 7.
Photo by Danh Nguyen.

Both of us had very different sequences as I'm much shorter and have a much smaller arm span that Rob. Despite that, we both had to deal with a very frustrating move to catch a small edge with a good thumb catch. The crux is a very wierd and low percentage move - I cannot work out how to do the move to be able to catch it everytime. The frustrating thing about this move is that it's the last move before you get big jugs.

Setting up to hit the crux!
Photo by Nam Tran.

I spent a good 3 hours on this line and on my last literal try for the day, I managed to catch the crux and made my way to the top. I had more than 10 attempts from the start and only to fall at the crux. I had so many different sequences and when I changed some beta, I would stuff up another part of the sequence. My day was far from smooth but in the end I manage to top out on this classic line.

A very satisfying tick indeed!

Tomorrow we're off the The Frontline again where I plan to work on Rocket Man and hopefully send Paratrooping.

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